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Exclusive Project

A beautiful lap quilt by Bernadette Wainwright

This project will give a gentle introduction to quilting and also the use of the Brother ScanNCut with an advanced element for those with a basic knowledge of both disciplines. The design is fresh and the quilt lightweight, perfect to pop on your knees if the evenings get a little chilly.

You will need:

  • Selected designs from a Fat Quarter bundle
  • 1mtr of contrast fabric
  • 1½ mtrs of fabric for the backing and piping
  • 1 mtr of lightweight wadding
  • Thread
  • Pins, normal and quilting
  • Sewing machine
  • Walking Foot
  • ScanNCut 900 or Quilters Edition
  • For the Advanced Option
  • Embroidery/Darning Foot
  • Contact sheet/Fusible web/bonding agent for the applique
  • Stitch & Tear temporary stabilizer

Time to Make: 5+ Hours

Skill Level: Intermediate with an Advanced option

Before You Start:

Gather all your supplies and have a quick read through the instructions just to familiarise yourself with the terminology. Press your fabric with a suitable iron temperature to ensure it is smooth and easy to work with. You would be amazed with the difference in size a few creases can make.

All seams are ¼” unless otherwise stated. Press all seams as you go along, generally pressing to “the dark side” and “butting” seams together to give a perfect pattern match.

When using the ScanNCut, make sure the high-tack adhesive fabric support sheet is attached to the standard mat. Place the Fat Quarter fabric (main design) on the mat face side down using the spatula to remove any wrinkles. Carry out a test cut to ensure that the correct pressure and blade setting are selected. Generally on a craft cotton a cut pressure of 3 and a blade setting of 4 is used but each machine will have slight variances, so always carry out a test cut.

Within the pattern folder select the patchwork/quilting folder on page 2. Open up the quilting designs and select the second option, then, select the first design, PA-B001. Alter the dimensions to those of your finished block. This design uses 6” squares, the machine will now add the seam allowance. Press OK, the next screen shows the 3 elements of the design. First select A, the largest square, the position is now shown within the design on the LED screen. Press OK. Increase the number required to 9. Press set. The blocks will now appear on the screen.

Remove the blade and holder from the machine. Place the purple erasable pen in the pen holder and check the draw speed is on 3 and draw pressure is on 0. Insert the mat and scan, check the test cut is not in an area to be cut, if it is, move the square to a free location. Select draw.

Instructions:

  1. Remove the pen holder, install the blade and holder. Select finish on the screen then cut.
  2. Unload, remove the squares from the mat, position more of the same fabric on the mat, load and select the next part, cut 36 of option B. Repeat the drawing and cutting process.
  3. Repeat again for option C in the contrast fabric drawing and cutting 36 oblongs. You have now cut all the patchwork squares within the design however the finished quilt has 4 corner stones around the border. These are from the FQ fabric, using the same patchwork design cut 4 further squares using option A only.
  4. From the basic pattern selection you now need to cut, 4 oblongs (BA-A012), measuring 24½” x 3½” D, 2 measuring 12½” x 3½” E and finally 2 measuring 6½” x 3½” F then 4 x 6½” squares (BA-A001) G, these are all from the contrast fabric.
  5. Sew together at the long edges, 2 contrast oblongs (C) to 1 of the 3½” FQ squares (A). This will now be block I. Now sew the 2 x 2” FQ squares (B) to another oblong (C) at the short ends, this will now be block J. Repeat using all small squares B and oblongs C. This will leave the four corner stones A to be used later.
  6. Make a 9 patch block (K) by sewing one block J to the top and one to the bottom of a I block. Sew 2 of these K blocks together, this will now be known as an L block. Repeat this three times, which will leave one spare K block for the centre of your quilt.
  7. Using the spare centre K block stitch the two contrast F oblongs at either side, this will now be M. Take the two longer oblongs, E and sew to the bottom of one L block and one to the top of another L block, N and O.
  8. Sew N to the top of M and O to the bottom of M. This will now become P. Turn the two remaining L blocks on their side and attach a 6½” squares (G) in the contrast fabric, to the top and bottom of each, becoming Q.
  9. Sew one Q block to the right side of the P block and the other Q block to the left side becoming R block. You are almost there. Take two of the remaining longest oblongs D and attach to the top and bottom of R, now sew two of the last 3½” squares (A) to the top and bottom of each of the remaining oblongs D. Sew this strip to the sides of the R block.
  10. Your patchwork top is now finished. Make sure it is square and trim if required. Now lay up your quilt sandwich, this is made up of your backing fabric, face down, wadding and finally your patchwork top, face up. The backing fabric and wadding should be approximately 2” larger all the way round than your patchwork top. Using the quilting pins, secure through all layers.
  11. Using your walking foot quilt as desired. I find the easiest option is stitching in the ditch, this is where you sew along the seam line, making the sewing almost invisible. Remove the pins as you approach them.
  12. From the remaining backing fabric cut your binding. Depending on the width of your fabric, you will need three or four strips of the natural width 2½” wide, making sure there is sufficient to go round the quilt plus approx. 8-9” for the corners and overlapping ends. Join the strips into a continuous length, pin the strips together at a 90-degree angle with right sides facing, sew the seam on the bias. The seam should run from edge to edge of each strip. Trim and press the seam open.
  13. Make a label for your quilt, it is important to do this, it doesn’t take long but can be of immense interest to other people. It could include your name, and the date you made the quilt, the occasion it was made for and the recipient, I often give mine a title. You could write on a piece of fabric with a fine tipped permanent fabric pen and then sew to the quilt, you could hand embroider or if your machine has text you could embroider with this. Sew the label in the seam allowance.
  14. Fold the strip in half lengthways, wrong side together, press. Fold and press under ½” to neaten the edge where you will start sewing. Lay the doubled binding strip on the right side of the quilt, raw edges together. Pin in place starting about 12” away from a corner, leaving the first 1” open so you can tuck the end in later. At the first corner, stop ¼” from the edge of the fabric and backstitch. Fold the binding up and then fold down again. Stitch from the edge and repeat at each corner. When you arrive back at the beginning tuck the end inside the beginning and sew down. Fold the fabric over to the back of the quilt and handstitch in place.
  15. Congratulations your quilt is now finished.

Advanced:

For the advanced quilt I replaced the central block with a large contrast 12½” square and appliqued on this. I also appliqued a design on the four contrast squares. To do this complete the patchwork top leaving the large central contrast square and the four smaller contrast squares blank. The four corner blocks were also changed and cut in the design fabric. I used the ScanNCut and chose AR-A011 and AR-K062. For the small square the flower was 2 x 2” and the leaf was also 2” long. I cut 3 of each flower and then 3 leaves for each square. For the central square I scaled up the flowers to 4 x4” and the length of the leaf was also scaled up to 4”. I also added a further 2 leaves. The waste from the centre of the small flowers was used as the centre for the large flower.

Following the manufacture’s instructions fuse the contact sheet / bonding agent onto the wrong side of the fabric. Remove the backing paper from the bonding agent and place the fabric on the mat face side down, using the spatula to remove any wrinkles. Several pieces of fabric can be placed around the mat at the same time. Scan the mat, select the desired designs and cut

  1. Once cut, position right side up on the front of your patchwork top. When you are happy with the positioning, iron in place, bonding your fabrics onto the top. Position Stitch and Tear stabilizer behind the design area, this will help to keep the work stable while you are stitching. As the name suggests, you can tear this away when you have finished. For free machine embroidery lower the feed dogs and attach the embroidery or darning foot to your machine. When stitching you can use thread which blends with the fabric or make a feature by using vivid colours, shiny rayons or metallic threads which can look very effective and give a further dimension.
  2. When you have finished your applique remove the embroidery foot, attach the presser foot holder and then your chosen foot. Raise the feed dogs, these will not physically raise until you start sewing again so don’t panic if you don’t see them come up straight away. Now, tear away the Stitch and Tear from the back of the design. Complete the remainder of the quilt as above.
  3. Please ensure all images are attached as jpegs to the email you send along with this. Many thanks and look forward to seeing your make!