Before you start any project, gather all your supplies and have a quick read through the instructions just to familiarise yourself with the terminology. Always iron your fabrics to remove any creasing - you will be amazed at the difference it can make. All seams are ¼” unless otherwise stated.

Cut:

In the Main fabric
2 x rectangles 18” x 15” (46cms x 38cms) for the front and back.
12” x 6½” (31cms x 17cms) internal pocket
8½” x 8½” (22cms x 22cms) internal pocket
2 strips 5”x25” (13cms x 64cms) handles

In the Lining
2 x rectangles 18” x 15” (46cms x 38cms) for the front and back.
12” x 8½” (31cms x 22cms) Front pocket

Contrast Fabric
12” x 8½” (31cms x 22cms) Front pocket

In-R-Form
2 x rectangles 18” x 15” (46cms x 38cms) for the front and back.

Step-by-step copy:

1. Iron both pieces of the In-R-Form to the wrong side of the main fabric front and back panels.
2. Cut two 3” (8cm) Squares out of the bottom corners on both the main fabric and lining pieces
3. For the front pocket, take the contrast fabric and lining fabric, place right sides together, pin and tack if required then sew, leaving a 4” (10cm) gap at the bottom for turning. Trim the corners to reduce bulk. Turn through and press tucking the raw edges of the opening inside.
4. Position on the front panel approximately ½” (1.3cms) above the cut out corner square. Pin in place, tack if required.
5. Using a large stitch and starting at the top right hand side, topstitch down the side, along the bottom, closing the opening and up the left hand side of the front pocket, remembering to backstitch at the beginning and end to strengthen the pocket.
6. Place the front and back of the bag right sides together, pin, tack if required. Stitch together at the sides and bottom edge leaving the cut out squares open.
7. To square off the base, align one side seam with the bottom seam, bringing open edges together.
8. Pin, tack if required, and stitch straight across the corner. Press, then turn the bag the right side out.
9. To make the inside pockets, turn under ¼” (0.5cms) at the top of the first pocket. Repeat.
10. Using a long stitch length, topstitch the top of the two internal pockets. On the unfinished edges turn under ¼” (0.5cms) all the way round and press. Position the pockets centrally and 3” (8cms) down on the right side of the lining pieces. Pin and tack if required. Again, using a longer stitch, topstitch around the three unsewn edges, remembering to back-tack at the beginning and end.
11. On the wider internal pocket and using the air soluble pen or tailors chalk, mark half way at the top and bottom, draw a line and then sew through all thicknesses to create two smaller pockets, remembering to back-tack as a reinforcement.
12. With right sides facing, place the front and back of the lining together, pin, tack if required. Stitch together at the sides and bottom edge leaving a 5” gap at the base for turning and the cut out squares open. Square off the base as you did for the outer bag.
13. To make the handles, fold the fabric in half lengthwise and press.
14. Open out the fabric, fold the two long sides inwards to the centre and press again.
15. Fold the whole handle in half again and press. You will now have 4 thicknesses of fabric.
16. Pin the edges together, tack if required, top-stitch along both long sides using a long stitch length.
17. Pin the handles to the bag, facing inwards, 4” (10cms) from each side. Sew within the seam allowance.
18. Insert the outer bag into the lining, right sides together. Sew around the top of the bag using a ½” (1.5cm) seam, making sure the handles are on the inside. Pull the bag through the gap in the bottom of the lining. Turn the lining right side out. Tucking the raw edges of the opening inside, sew the gap in the lining closed.
19. Push the lining inside the bag. Topstitch around the top of the bag, making sure the handles are out of the way.